There is so much history and scenery in England that it is in many ways the most amazing place I have ever lived. On the other hand, if you chose to live without a car, then getting anywhere is always difficult, and often impossible. Whatever the case, one can find places near to home to satisfy the need to explore, and fulfil the need to have a space to love for its aesthetics, its charm, or its tranquillity. My place was right in the City Centre and luckily enough for me, that has always been a short walk for me. I have been able to explore it over and over again these past eight years, and yesterday I took my last planned trip there.
I know I have said many times over the years, but this is my last time to really expound upon it. Forgive my while I indulge myself.
The Cathedral has stood in some form or another on this site since about 1084, though one predated it which was built in 680. The current Cathedral Crypt dates back to St. Oswald, and is the oldest remaining visible part of it. It is noted as the finest Crypt in England, and is one of several unique features of Worcester Cathedral. Also unique is the Chapter House along the East Cloister. The Chapter House is a grand room built in the round with a single supporting pillar at its centre.
The real magic of the crypt is the feeling of how many people must have come there to visit for whatever their reasons over the years, including kings and princes. As King John is interred directly above the Crypt, it is reasonable to to assume that his choice of Worcester means also that he has been in the Crypt as well.
King John of course achieved his fame through the tales of Robin Hood, but is most significantly remembered for being forced to sign Magna Carta at Runnymede. Magna Carta limited the powers of the sovereign and provides that the king is subject to the laws of England, including those of his own creation. Magna Carta is one of the many sources in English Law with provided inspiration for the Constitution of the United States. King John, unwittingly through his tyranny became one of the reasons the American government is subject to checks and balances today.
Such great influences are not limited in Worcester Cathedral to just King John, however. Near King John lies the bones of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII. Prince Arthur was very young and newly married when he died at Ludlow Castle. Had the Prince lived to be king, Henry VIII would not have become king, and England would be Catholic today, and the Pope who recently visited would be the head of the church here rather than the Queen, who is the head of the Church of England. Just how the history of the reformation would be different in England is hard to tell, but perhaps if he had survived, the library at Worcester Cathedral would not contain the skin of protester against the church which had been nailed to the cathedral door. (But you won’t find that in the Wikipedia article!)
Elgar’s Enigma Variations were first performed at Worcester Cathedral in 1899, for it is in this city that Elgar spent most of his life. He was known to ride his bike between Worcester and Hereford, and when listening to Land of Hope and Glory, One can easily imagine how the local countryside, especially when crossing the Malvern Hills, or when stood atop the Cathedral bell tower would have easily inspired his muse.
The Cathedral stands at the heart of the Faithful City, and almost all roads into the city point toward it as they come. King Charles was kept in Worcester safe from the Parliamentarians during the English Civil War of 1642 – 1651. The first major skirmish of the War was at Powick Bridge on the River Teme, where Prince Rupert leading 1,000 Royalist Cavalry defeated Colonel John Brown and his cavalry detachment. They were a part of two armies both in tens of thousands in size which at the time were separated only by Worcestershire then, 14 September 1642. It was later on 3 September 1651 that Cromwell defeated the new King of the time and the civil war ended. This too was at Worcester!
There are many reasons that the memory of Worcester Cathedral will ring clear in my mind for years to come like the bells would do through my open bedroom window on a Sunday morning in summer. The edifice stands grand and tall as the heart of the city, rich in history and proud on the banks of the River Severn. It was to the Bishop of Worcester that Sir William Shakespeare petitioned to marry his beloved Anne Hathaway, and it is here that Kings and Princes lie. It is here at Worcester and at its Cathedral where history truly first came to alive to me.
If you are ever in Worcester, entry to the Cathedral is free, but to photograph you must buy a permit from the gift shop (currently £3, and £4 for video or photo with a tripod). It is best to visit in the summer when viewing is permitted from the top of the tower, but if you chose to go, be prepared for a long, steep, winding climb where the passage narrows to just shoulder width at the top.
It was my love for this Cathedral that took me there for this last visit of ours, where we walked through the nave, and to the Crypt. We took in the cloisters and the chapter house as well as the gift shop. It seems I am unlikely to be able to record the bells before I go, which saddens me. The Sunday Peal is a work of beauty, and powerful because of the distance from which it can be heard. As it has survived some 1,000 years, I am sure it will be around whenever we get back to Worcester!
